This also seems helped a good bit by a big group 34 battery I installed when the wimpy OEM gave out after 2 years (would drop down to 11.6v after 2-3 hours). I'm an amateur radio operator, I have voltage readouts on my radio and inverter in my 2012 3.6R OB.I have noticed with high load in the winter (all defrosters, both heated seats high, low-beams + fog-lights, fans on high) the voltage can sag to 12.2v bit but if I downshift (to get my RPMs up above 2000) it recovers nicely. Instead, I'd look into having heavier cables installed to more efficiently move the power around, and consider an aftermarket alternator if you *really* need more current, or just drive in 1 gear lower to keep the RPMs up around 2000-3000 so you get good output.
it is over $600 => Ī more reasonable alternator for our Outbacks is here => If you want the ultimate Subaru alternator. This is why a 'true' high-output alternator costs over $300 - it has a lot of expensive copper within it as well as electronics capable of handling the additional current and heat. Hence, the cooling-fan needs to move more air thru the alternator. I would also suggest the windings should be configured in a "Delta" type of circuit (As compared to "Wye" design.) Also, the ability to generate more current also means it will run hotter.
(The maximum current is virtually unchaged)Ī true 'higher output' alternator is capable of pushing out more CURRENT (at the proper 13.8 volts) To produce more current safely, the winding's within the alternator need to be made of heavier wire and pure copper. Click to expand.Just to put an electrical Engineer spin on it: This 'mod' really only increases the regulated VOLTAGE.
0 kommentar(er)
